Madrid wears lights to pay tribute to their pattern .bullfighting and colored, in the meadow , with the« goyescas» ;, the chulapos and chulapas who come to drink water that comes out of the hermitage's canoe.Alli are dedicated to the art of good food sitting in the green, which is full of stalls with typical dishes (pickles-banderillas, eggplants from Almagro, olives,...-, fried foods like chicken coins and intricacies,« bocatas» de calamari , some cooked, potato omelette,...always accompanied by a boot of wine and culminating with the typical pastry, with the donuts« silly» and« lists» and the party does not stop because it continues with the chotis .Image more traditional, impossible, and better description that makes Galdos in his« May and the Isidros».
But San Isidro is not paid full tribute without the other party, that of the bulls.And our Iberian ring, as you know, enjoys having two very differentiated arts: art in the circle of the lodge in the impressive Las Ventas square tempting the fate of the bullfighter's hoods to the great animal, and the culinary art .Y« a table and tablecloth» with the tail (with sorry) we have encountered .
The Greeks already appreciated it too much and the Romans enjoyed their meat in their famous stews that so well reflects Marcus Gavius Apicius in his« De re Co Maquinaria» : the stew in the style of Ostia and in the same style as Apicius.Very present in the culinary culture of man, as reflected in his« Republic gentilica» Fray Jeronimo Romano, who had previously run in the reign of Tarquino, never lost his meat at the tables of Trimalcion, Marcial or Juvenal.
The aderramanes and the Zyriab, as the romances have , culminated their horns in the kitchens of the lords and cadies , whose lean cornupetas delighted the palates of the court of Abd al Rahman III and al-Hakam II.
In Spain of the arciprestes and celestinas it was customary the large slices of bull and ox meat in stews and potajes and it is in the XVIII, in the times of Pepe Illo and Costillares and Nicolas Penacho when that hobby arises in the Lusitana and Betica kitchens, that of the Hispanic sures and, above all, in Cordoba, the city that gives it prestige there by the 16th century.
In Cordoba
Plato de popular origin -antano this piece was sold as spoil in the casquerias-the typical recipe that prevails today dates from the late nineteenth century.Fama national t Thanks to the owner of The Red Horse, Jose Garcia Marin , who, when serving in monterias and hunts organized for the King, raised the humble tail until then, serving stew with red wine and guarnion de verduritas .It was prepared the day after a run in the Plaza de la Corredera in the surrounding inns, such as the Romana or the Lions and the El Carbon or the most recognized as El Puya or the Meson del Toro, which are supplied in the butchers of the square or in the slaughterhouse of the magnificent tails to eat stews accompanied by the wines of Montilla, Moriles or Aguilar.
The key is always that has to be done with calm and monastic patience , providing time to time, that is the art of the stove.And that has not changed.In this city« the best specimens» we have them in Bodegas Campos ( Lineros, 32.957 49 75 00.Cordoba) and in El Churrasco ( Romero, 16,957 29 08 19.Cordoba)
In Madrid
The bull in times of fair, like the great one that we now live that is that of San Isidro, ends his days in the sacrifice of the fight in the Plaza de las Ventas and its tail-amen from other parts of the animal-culminates in the pots and in the stomach of the diners.Another incentive that gives greater packaging to the bullfighting show itself, which began just 4 years ago and today is another ritual dedicated to the pattern of the Villa and Court is the gastro-cultural bet that is mounted in the Sala Alcala of the already famous Tendido 11 (Bullring of Las Ventas.Alcala, 237.Madrid).The start Paco Roncero (La Terraza del Casino) with twelve daily menus where the present and future of the bullfighting cuisine combined with the flag of Spain marked with its tail of bull with foie and mushrooms triumph in its particular bullfighting task.And today the Tendido 11 has consolidated as an integral part of the parties at La Monumental de Las Ventas.
The one who repeats experience for the second consecutive year is Luis Martin Lima (executive chef of the Goizeko Group ) .At the last fair he shared his« faena taurina» with Pepe Rodriguez Rey, today one of the most popular characters, thanks to the television program Master Chef , but always with his feet on the ground, working hard in his restaurant El Bohio.(His father was a reputed bullfighter photographer) I create a crispy oxtail with El Bohio salad , and the host is looking for four feet to the bull, providing his cover to each of the bullfighters who worked last year.
In this new bet« San Isidril» ;, Luis Martin trajina with Mario Sandoval , chef of Coque (two Michelin stars).Always claiming the meat Of brave race, Sandoval will delight attendees of the great bullfighting party with a sweet ravioli of tendons and oxtail with grilled figs and spicy cochinita juice.A great task as a lid.your host, the executive chef of the Goizeko Group, offers his cap « Capote de grana y oro&r here; , whose main ingredient is the oxtail.
A shadow, however, looms over this piece of lidia; It has spread like dust in all our bull skin and there is no city at the time of the fair that does not offer this tasty food to the diner.And this massification , rather than exalting the product, puts it in question because it is impossible for thousands of rations to be served in restaurants every day when there are no bulls in the pastures.
Toribio Anta, owner of the emblematic Casa Toribio (Cardinal Belluga, 14.91 355 90 20.Madrid) , has the exclusive of these pieces and hegemony has been his for 23 years.In his restaurant you can consume all year round because it arrives packaged in a vacuum and freezes directly until the eve of its preparation.
It is normal, then, that assault the doubt of if they give us« cat for hare» or, in this case, kangaroo tail by the bull.But not to wait for the party, enjoy the authentic tail with the proposals an mentioned tees and others that we offer to open their mouths.In the Forum there is a lot of level and tradition, such as the aforementioned Casa Toribio, Casa Pedro (Ntra.Sra.de Valverde, 119.91 734 02 01.Madrid), which is served stewed with potatoes, or Casa Salvador (Barbieri, 12.91 521 45 24.Madrid).A delicacy prepared by Dona Julia in Asturianos (Vallehermoso , 94.91 533 59 47.Madrid), accompanied by his majestic fabas.Also makes this same recipe my dear mother, Dona Amparo.
Another seductive initiative is the Month of the Bulltail , where 26 Madrid establishments, such as El Pitaco, Los Galayos or Cruz Blanca de Vallecas offer (from last May 1 to 31) a menu for 27'50€ (VAT included) where The entrance is offered to the diner, the large oxtail dish, dessert, coffee and drink.
In the Forum, the classic recipe of the stew prevails, but there are many already the« alt ernativas» of chefs who bet on giving the tail another dimension.It's the « must» of the moment and that has to be noticed in our usual tour.I can not leave in the inkwell an avant-garde dish that keeps my taste: Sour soup of oxtail, eel and eels, DiverXo (three Michelin stars.NH Eurobuilding.Padre Damian, 23.91 570 07 66.Madrid) created by David Munoz (then called that) in 2012.And they return casicos as the stew of Ponzano ( Ponzano, 12.91 448 68 80.Madrid), which also do it in croquettes, as in the new Roll Station (Sta Engracia, 68.91 434 76 31.Madrid).
In Disengage (Walk de la Habana, 84.91 457 56 68.Madrid), Ivan Saez cooks it stewed and boneless with seasonal vegetables and creamy mashed potatoes, and in meatballs in Bacira (Castillo, 16.91 866 40 30.Madrid ).A very attractive one is the roasted tuetano with oxtail of La Malaje (Rapporteurs, 20.91 081 30 31.Madrid) and, of course, we cannot leave in the inkwell the great creations that each Year Juanjo Lopez Bedmar is offered at La Tasquita de Enfrente (Ballesta, 6.91 532 54 49.Madrid) or Abraham Garcia at Viridiana (Juan de Mena, 14.91 531 10 39.Madrid )
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